Appi Kogen spreads across the flank of Mount Maemori in Iwate, deep in Japan's Tohoku region, and is the largest single ski resort in the northeast. From a base at 500 m it rises to 1,328 m on 16 lifts, including two gondolas, serving 21 runs and about 43 km of piste, with a longest descent of 5.5 km, an eternity of perfectly manicured corduroy. The mountain is split roughly evenly between beginner, intermediate and advanced terrain, but its signature is the long, wide, immaculately groomed cruiser through the birch, a style of skiing Appi does better than almost anywhere in Japan. And it snows: around 12 metres a year of light, dry Tohoku powder, so the off-piste and tree lines refill fast while the crowds stay away. That is the other draw. Appi is far quieter and less international than Niseko or Hakuba, a proper resort with space to breathe. Almost everyone stays on the mountain in the big hotels at the base, from the long-running ANA Crowne Plaza to the plush new ANA InterContinental, so ski-in, ski-out is the norm rather than the exception. Getting there is easy for Japan: the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo reaches Morioka in about two and a quarter hours, then it is a short transfer to the lifts. For skiers who want big, snowy, beautifully groomed terrain without the Niseko circus, Appi Kogen is one of Japan's best-kept secrets.