The Yllästunturi is broad, rounded and treeless on top, with pistes funnelling down both sides through silver birch and old-growth pine into the lakeside villages. Äkäslompolo, on the lake of the same name, has the prettier setting and the deeper Sami and reindeer-husbandry culture; Ylläsjärvi is quieter and more residential. A single lift pass and a free ski-bus link the two, but most visitors pick a side and explore from there. The cross-country network out into the national park is the real treasure: 330 km of groomed track, a handful of wilderness kotas where you can grill sausages over an open fire, and elk and reindeer crossings every few kilometres. Aurora viewing is excellent thanks to the absence of light pollution in any direction.