Macugnaga is one of those places that has stayed itself. The Walser settlers came over from the Valais in the 13th century and left a village of dark larch beams and heavy stone-slab roofs, and that is still the architecture you walk through at 1,327 m today. Above you rises the Monte Rosa east face, a vertical wall of nearly 2,500 m that climbers genuinely compare to the Himalayas. The skiing splits in two: the Belvedere sector right out of the village, mellower and tree-lined, and the Monte Moro sector that climbs in a single big cable car to 2,868 m. From the top of Monte Moro you look across at the Mattmark dam holding back its blue lake on the Swiss side, and the long descent back down through gullies and open snowfields is what people come for. Thirty-five km of piste is not a huge number, but the terrain is serious, the off-piste possibilities are real, and the lift queues are almost nothing. Macugnaga is also one of the great ski-touring bases in the western Alps, with the Monte Rosa hut routes starting from the valley head. Come here if you want quiet pistes, big mountains overhead, and an Italian village that still feels like itself.