The Furggstalden chairlift lifts skiers out of the village to the Heidbodme bowl at 2,400 m, where the 20 km of piste run as four long descents back to the bottom of the valley: gentle blues on the upper slopes, two genuine reds and two short blacks lower down, all north-facing and held in good shape into spring. The lift system is small, the queues nonexistent, and the lift pass for the Saas-Tal opens Saas-Fee's glacier circus and the Hohsaas above Saas-Grund by post bus. The ski tourers, though, are the ones who light up at the mention of Almagell: the village is the standard launching point for the Allalinhorn, the Strahlhorn and the Britanniahütte, and the Monte Moro crossing into Italian Macugnaga remains one of the great traverses of the Alps. Down in the village, the Bärenstube and the old Hotel Pirmin Zurbriggen, named after the local downhill world champion, anchor an evening of raclette and Heida wine.