Skeikampen is the kind of place where guests come back every winter for thirty years and never ask for anything to change. The alpine slopes are wide, evenly graded and floodlit two evenings a week, with the steeper red and black pitches on the north face of the mountain holding cold snow into April. There is no rail or motorway disruption here; the village stops at a handful of timber hotels, a ski school, a small supermarket and a couple of restaurants, and the cars are parked once and left. The nordic network is what most regulars come for, 220 km of groomed track in lines that climb gently toward the Skeikampen summit and drop into the forest toward Gausdal. The Gausdal Høyfjellshotell, a 1916 timber building, sets the tone, with long evenings of waffles, brunost cheese and a working sauna culture. Children are well looked after, and the resort tends to feel more Norwegian than international even in peak weeks.