Mt Hotham sits at 1750 metres along a narrow ridge in the Victorian Alps, with the resort village strung out either side of the Great Alpine Road. The unusual layout means you park or step off the bus at the top, then drop in to ride a network of 13 lifts and around 50 km of pistes that fan down into Heavenly Valley, the Extreme Zone and Mary's Slide. The black-run count, 27 in total, is the highest in Australia by share of terrain, and the steep tree-skiing through snow gum stands gives Hotham its reputation for genuine expert pitches. Mary's Slide and Gotcha drop sharply off the front face, while the Heavenly Valley quad accesses long blues for intermediates. Beginners stick to Big D and the dedicated learner area at Summit. Hotham Airport, just down the road at Horsehair Plain, is the highest commercial airport in Australia and runs charter flights from Sydney during peak winter. The village itself is utilitarian rather than charming, but a tight cluster of bars, the Snowbird Hotel and the General Store give it a friendly, no-pretence atmosphere. Pair it with Dinner Plain, 10 km away, for a quieter alpine stay with a free shuttle.